The Couture shows are where designers can really let themselves go, and where some of the most extravagant and iconic garments are shown. The Spring collections that have been shown over the last couple of weeks are truly a reflection of our current society and show how fashion and our perception of what couture means are changing. Here we selected our favorite looks from the Spring Couture 2018 shows.
In the current zeitgeist, social media is a massive influence on the fashion industry even forcing fashion houses to alter sets to make shows “Instagram-friendly”. John Galliano was bewildered by seeing how everyone watched the shows through their phones and used it as an inspiration. Speed, technology, and the fast-forwarding fractured chaos of modern society were the subtexts of this couture collection. As the collection walked the runway, the members of the audience were asked to turn their camera’s on flash to truly capture the effects of the fabric. “Freezing the glamour of the accidental, the magical moment,” Galliano explained.
Surrealism and feminism were the main themes in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior. Avant-garde artist Leonor Fini played a big part in Maria’s inspiration for the collection, which was symbolized by the birdcage bodices, checkerboard prints, and femininity of the garments. Women’s bodies are a very recurring theme when it comes to surrealism and Maria really wanted to paint a picture that represents women today, by not only creating beautiful dreamy dressing but also trouser suits and tailored coat-dresses for the more practical women. Solely using black and white added that extra touch of drama that lifted up the entire collection.
The relationship between reality and fantasy are the foundation that makes the house of Schiaparelli. Creative Director Bertrand Guyon made sure to reflect that in this latest collection. Elsa’s iconic lobsters, however, were replaced by patterns of insects, snakes and other surrealistic creatures. Another key element that made the collection was the use of draping and pleading, whether it was a dress or trousers you eye immediately fell to the way it fell over the body. The multi-colored, oversized waisted coat, another one of Schiaparelli’s signatures, really reflected the essence of the collection and 21st-century practical glamour.
For a few seasons now there has been a shift towards who the houses are designing for. Many designers are fascinated by the millennial generation and curious to whom this person is and their alternative sense of what beauty is. Effortlessness seems to be the key when it comes to attracting this new generation of “fashionista’s” to whom comfort comes first, which resulted in Valli’s effortless-looking couture outings that one may even consider being more ready to wear. The “simple” garments, however, were filled with many details that take a lot of work. The hand-stitched embroidery for instance. Pairing these minimalistic silhouettes with a pair of thigh-high patent leather boots are what gave the looks this sense of effortless coolness that many designers are trying to capture.